A Travellerspoint blog

Day 12 Procida Is

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Settling into this island life.... Strange place kinda a little sad but fascinating. Tiny narrow streets barely wide enough for cars generally with no footpath to speak of. If a car or truck comes along one has to often press up against a wall. Oh & pray !!!!
We have an apartment here so decided that as it's a predominately fishing island we should partake. If you see our photos we were actually at the port when the fishing boat came in at 3 pm . Bill bought us two whole fish . Bill says they are a little like fat sweep . Right ! We then went shopping for potatoes , salad & onions . Should be an interesting effort. Fish was so fresh it was still flapping . I didn't like that bit much . Bill of course called me a wus !
Ok enough of the domesticity ...off to see the sites of this forgotten place. We decided to make the long walk right to the highest point of the island where the ancient palace is situated. Unfortunately it is now uninhabitable but believe it or not it was a prison until 1988. Oh it must have been quite barbaric .
We then went on further to the church perched right on the rocks . We took a tour ( well kind of a tour ) you pays your € & are handed a few pages to follow. They were at least in English not Italian.. It did make it easier to follow what the hell we were looking at .The macabre ....these countries have a penchant for the macabre but it gets me in every time .
I must say at this point we have seen a lot of creepy places since we started travelling in 1970's but this place gave me the horrors. It had a very unpleasant vibe to me.
Bill says he found the odours were from the past. There is a large open graveyard there dating back many centuries. It was used for the poor & perhaps it was still talking. It has been covered due to health requirements this era . Glad I didn't visit before they covered it !
Only the rich could afford the taxes to be buried properly .
History trip finished we went back down the hill keeping close to the walls & looking for somewhere for lunch. Went to the marina & Bill had another meal of mussels & I had scaloppine & very spicy eggplant salad. This was of course washed down with a light white .All good & pleasant .
We are now about to start the evening fish delight. This is Bill's department today. Cheers all .

Posted by Billdeb 08:45 Comments (0)

Extra extra ....

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Wellll folk who follow,
Just another little extra from him who is me!! My dear Deb sort of panics when on public transport and the other day when going to Pompeii, said lovely lady raised and went to the exit door of the train three bloody stops before our station. Now this I made note... Was a record in her paranoia. Today she was at me to be ready to disembark from the ferry while entering the breakwater of this island stop. It was at this time I said to her....no one was getting off until the thing was fastened to the wharf. I think I'll have another beer...

Posted by Billdeb 11:20 Comments (0)

Day 11 Procida Is.

sunny 17 °C
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Beautiful morning ,sun shinning what more could we want for the trip to Procida Is. Left Amalfi at 9am bound for Salerno. The trip from Amalfi to Salerno takes 1.30 hrs due as I've said before to the cliff roads one has to traverse. We found the biglietto ufficio ( ticket office) bought our tickets & realised we had only about 4 minutes to find the platform & get on the train. We made it with about I min to spare.
Train to Napoli only took about 30 mins & then we were in Garabaldi Sq a place I had been warned to be extremely careful in. It's enormous people everywhere lots of scammers etc trying to offer God knows what. We wanted a taxi to the port ...found what looked like a legit taxi bargained with him & off into the wilds of Napoli. Once again another ticket office & half hour wait for the ferry well we actually went on a jet ferry. More expensive but fast & less rusty than the old traditonal ferries.
Interesting when we arrived at the island ...we knew we had to catch a 1 or 2 bus but that was it. Travellers are often great to each other some Austrians came up to us & told us where the bus left from . Tried to buy tickets on the bus but that wasn't going to happen. Oh well ! Found the square we needed to get off at & it was reasonably easy to find our apartment.
Well this town / island is like stepping back into perhaps the 19th C but with quite ancient building I figure from 16th C . Very ,very poor & not maintained however our apartment must have been renovated quite recently . It's delightful . We have our own patio & a roof top garden over looking the whole Island.
Decided we needed lunch & a walk around this time forgotten place. We headed down to the fishing port ....3 restaurants right on the fisherman's wharf . Great ! I was looking at the menu in one & Bill was checking out one of the others. He called me over because he saw mussels with spaghettini . I dutifully went over & world war three began between the two restaurants . Pretty funny I guess but they were going " hammer & tongs. We finished up in the one Bill went to first. The meal was great Bill had the mussels & I had spaghetti pomodora ( tomato ) delicious. Oh & a half carafe of rosé . We figured we would be ok with a half carafe but oh no they then presented us with limoncello liqueur . What is it with these Italians & their limoncello liqueur at 3 pm ? Hey Peter Beck ?
We wandered literally back to our apartment about 4.30. Round 7 pm Bill went out hunting & gathering & came back with a huge bag of potato chips , red wine , smoked salmon,1.5 litre fanta, milk & 2 bottles of beer & 6 tubs of yoghurt all for the grand total of €10.83 . I somehow think we may be ripped off back home. Bloody hell I know we are !
Well guys this was our day. Really wish some of you friends were here to share this amazing time travel .
Hey Ann Beck I emailed you days ago did you get it ?
Oh forgot to say we have now ridden the local bus twice with money in hand but driver waves us away . Mmmmm riding free buses in Procida doesn't seem quite right. Gotta work out where to buy the tickets. Hey Pete remember that train ticket you gave Zkye when we were in Lucca Tuscany. Cost Billy in the end & we nearly got us locked up. Remember it wouldn't validate. God if we are locked up in Procida we will be here for ever. No one would ever think to look in the jail here. I'm sure we don't have a consulate here either. Ciao

Posted by Billdeb 10:45 Comments (0)

Day 10 The Hike

overcast 14 °C
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I was a little dubious about " the hike" but Bill insisted so off we went. Weather today really wasn't encouraging but regardless we were going to conquer this mountain. Right ! The thing you need to understand is that the Italians don't really appear to care about making things easy for their thousands of tourists & although we were supposed to be heading into a National Park they were not about to put any signs up.
We kept going up up up till we came to private property. Turned back found another unmarked road & started up that. Lots of up hill then lots of steps in reasonable condition then suddenly they deteriorated . We kept going for perhaps 10 mins but I was nervous & of course complaining about " occ health & safety . I guess we got about half way when pulled the pin.
Not to miss out Bill decided we would walk from Amalfi to Atrani the next village. Not touristy so interesting to us. But the walk oh man ! It's of course not safe to walk on the road so there is firstly a huge tunnel walkway cut through the mountain.Then you walk down numerous stairs ( we were lucky we saw someone doing it so figured this was the way to go ) & into the village. The villages are a honeycomb of tiny alleyways with very steep staircases . I don't really like heights much but of course there were things to see & I often manage to overcome my fears.
I particularly wanted to reach the main church of St Mary Magdelena. Straight up the mountain side who knows how many steps. We made it to the top only to find the damned church wasn't even open.
The whole effort from the start of the aborted hike to the little village & back took nearly 4 hours.
We then had lunch in our favourite restaurant ..treated like old friends there now.
Was approached by an American woman who was sure I was someone she knew back home. I have a double oh no !!
We only had one glass of red but the obligatory liqueur to finish with. This time is was mandarincello .Interesting & quite different from lemoncello .
Late this afternoon we are taking an historical tour of the town. Should be most informative there is a lot of history here.
Tomorrow is a travelling day from here by bus to Salerno the train to Naples & ferry to Procida Island. We are starting off about 9am & figure we may reach our destination about 2.30 . That's if the plans work & there aren't anymore strikes. Good luck us!

Posted by Billdeb 06:17 Archived in Italy Comments (0)

Day 9

sunny 18 °C
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Well this was the quietest day so far. Recovery from the huge day at Pompeii. Late start finished breakfast at 10am wandered back to our room emails & reading. Still reading The Leopard I hope I manage to finish it before we get to Sicily,
The plan today was a visit to the Arsenale Maritime Museo. Stunning surprisingly elegant building constructed under the cliffs on the edge of the sea. Originally used for ship building centuries back.
Spent a couple of hours sifting through the ancient history then off to lunch. Seriously over pizza & panini already so decided no takeaway .Nice restaurant Maria's ( we know the owner by now) I had Minestrone with obligatory pasta & Bill filet steak . Filet was served on a a bed of rocket with a large piece of lemon. Bill also had a side salad . He says it was delicious . We ordered a single glass of red each but this somehow came as a half carafe . When we finished we were presented with complimentary shots of limoncello .
That was the finish of us for a while we went quietly back to our hotel for a siesta. Evening was spent watching boring BBC repeat news & reading .
Today apparently we are off on a hike above the town . Could be interesting methinks !!

Posted by Billdeb 23:46 Archived in Italy Comments (0)

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